EGT Installed - Acceptable readings??

[hybridturboGSR]

what is the best location for the EGT on a turbo car and why?

[hybridturboGSR]

hmm .. ok .. so how far from the block should the probe be sitting?

[G3-TEG]

NO NO NO.. you do NOT want to run the EGT probe in the Cyl #1.. you need to run it in #3...

Trust me.. everyone that i know of (tuners) say this.. acutally here, straight from Larry Widmers@Endyne:

quote:
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Regarding your problem....keep in mind that number 3 cylinder on all Honda
engines MUST be tuned differently than the other three. Both the air flow
and fuel requirements are a long way from being the same as the other
cylinders.
When #3 begins to overheat, it transfers excess heat into #2 and it'll go
next.
This problem stems from fact that #3 doesn't run at the same temperature as
the other cylinders. One must be able to both analyze both the chemical
composition of eash cylinder, as well as the exhaust gas temperatures of all
the cylinders (real time) to make the correct compensations. Of course,
anytime the engine's under boost and load, the problem is accentuated.
Perhaps, you should discuss this situation with your engine builder to
discern what fixes he can offer to eliminate the problem in the future.

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Also regarding, welding the probe in place or not.. the best thing to do IS to weld it in place.. well the nut anyways... to avoid exhast leaks.. i would stay away from the 'clamp' on style ones..

PS: any one have an AUTOMETER egt gauge with a STREET probe? i haven't had any luck on getting mine to work correctly..

HTH

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.99 GSR
.TO4e power
.Plate# V8 THIS
.ICQ# 27569229

[Heretic]

#3 is correct for somewhat close to stock fuel setups. That tends to run the leanest. That's where mine is at right now, however since I have a new fuel rail, and additional injectors the best place would be cylinder #4 (where the most air goes).

As for temperature, I get around ~800-820C -cruising- around 80-85mph (~4000 rpm). At idle it's typically between 400-500C. After running -HARD- for about 10 minutes, my EGT's idled at 570C. Above 900C, I'd be real worried. With 6 pounds of boost I'd try to -never- get above 870C. I stabilize right under 900C after a hard 4th or 5th gear pull, in the lower gears I never get past 870C, and that's at 14-15 pounds of boost. Your cylinder pressures should be much lower than mine. 900C is nominal for a Supra running 23 pounds of boost with a 100 shot of NOS.

You have a J&S? That'll help a lot. After running hard your EGTs can get really high. I've seen mine get above 900C after lots of runs, but that's because the manifold heated up so much, it's different from a cold run. You have to keep that into account.

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Ryan Earl
'99 Turbo SH
NTPOG - North Texas Prelude Owners Group
My Page

[Turismo]

#4 being closest to the drivers side? And #3 being the one next to it?

Why would #4 get the most air???

[lundgren]

This being the case, wouldn't it warrant installing slightly larger injectors on cylinder #3 to offset this?

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http://www.groupbuycenter.com/

[Ho_Train]

#3 cylinder's tendency to run "hot" has nothing to do with air of fuel flow. If the air and fuel to #3 is the same as the other 3 cylinders, it'll still run lean and hot. It's all due to its relationship to the other cylinders, and the way the cooling system operates. #3 doesn't cool or transfer heat to the water as efficiently as the other cylinders.
Honda has always said that with everything else equal, cylinder 3 must be run richer and with less timing. Their tech sheets also agree with TOO that it's a heat transfer issue.

[This message has been edited by Ho_Train (edited April 22, 2000).]

[Heretic]

Well, the air's velocity would naturally carry it into #4.

I'm unaware of the heating problem with the #3 cylinder. From what I read it is a fuel rail issue.

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Ryan Earl
'99 Turbo SH
NTPOG - North Texas Prelude Owners Group
My Page

[rjaffey]

Number 3 runs hottest. It has less surface exposed to coolant than numbers 1 and 4 and the coolant it gets has already been heated by numbers 1 and 2.